Sep 20

Southerly now

by in Places we've been, Things we've seen

And a little bit north. Back down the coastal highway from Karratha generally heading south we decided we should check out Onslow, cos its on the map. This sort of meant a north westerly diversion, actually back to the coast to a township shown as having a population of just 690 people.

Well surprise, surprise its no longer that small. The Wheatstone offshore gas project has transformed this seaside shanty town into a hive of building activity with accommodation of all styles being built everywhere. Apparently in this project construction phase, which has been going on for some years and will continue perhaps for another 2 there are 5400 workers in the town and on site out of town. We stayed in the largest caravan park surrounded by new units and mobile donga accommodation …..DSC07909 DSC07912 DSC07915 DSC07931 DSC07933 DSC07934

The above show the project through a long lens and the new housing estate being developed in town and the caravan park. There are some 400 workers housed and fed daily in the caravan park alone. Greyhound buses ferry them backwards and forwards to the construction site or to the airport as they fly in and out. The whole project is massive and will ultimately transform Onslow into something like Newman  or Tom Price – a substantial ‘mining town’. Mind you, it has little else. It could only otherwise be described as a sleepy little fishing village with only a salt production plant to otherwise provide income….

DSC07922 DSC07927 DSC07928 DSC07929

A massive pier and conveyor belt carries salt out to ships, but we saw none on our visit. Do wonder how much actually happens here.

In my attempt to get shots of the Wheatstone Project we headed out onto a sandy strip at the end of a dead end road where we could see people fishing and a couple of other vehicles out on the point. Following existing wheel tracks was presumed the safest course – WRONG. The ruts were just too deep for poor little Suzi and belly down we stopped, straddling the hump in the middle. No traction at all. How embarrassing. Ah well we’ll just have to dig out or winch out! Digging under or in front of the wheels resulted in just deeper ruts and there was nothing to hook up to to winch out. Just have to get help. Wandered (stumbled really) over to the fisher folk who, as I got closer, took on a much darker hew. Well they did have two Nissan Patrols so with hand on heart I ask for help. No wurries bro! Fire up a Nissan, hitch a ride back surrounded by piccaninnies running. Hook up winch to Nissan parked off to side of track and winch Suzi out onto non-disturbed sand, unhook, effusive thanks and $20, select low 4×4 and plow back on the harder undisturbed sand. At least I got photos of the Wheatstone Project. Bit of a test really – clearance means a lot.

We survived, although Jude is a little more apprehensive of sandy tracks. Back to the highway and on south again. But Exmouth requires another northerly detour. We had been advised by many that Exmouth provided many points of beauty and interest, including some of the best ‘free’ camp sites in the country. So went the advice that you had to queue up from 6.00am to take advantage of someone leaving the National Park sites on the Ningaloo Reef if you wanted to actually stay in the Park. By the time we got into Exmouth it was too late in the day to anticipate a site in the Park but we did consult with the Dept of Fisheries and Wildlife (or whatever they call themselves here) only to have it confirmed that we did indeed need to line up early in the day if we wanted a site. We ascertained that there was actually only one ground that would accommodate our rig so, after checking into a station stay caravan park at the entrance to the Cape Range National Park, we drove down to check our options. Sure the site would fit us but after inspection we decided that we didn’t share others effusive delight at the beauty of the site/s. A couple of long drop dunnies, a sand dune between the site and the beach a few stumpy trees and nothing but some low barren hills to the rear to look out on.

DSC07936 DSC07937 DSC07939 DSC07941 DSC07942

We drove further into the Park to be further disappointed.

DSC08011 DSC08012 DSC08013

There must be s here that we are not seeing – perhaps it is the Ningaloo Reef. The Reef is 180 km or so long and generally is just a few hundred metres off the coast. Many coral and fish varieties to be observed here, all easily accessible. A fishermans paradise! Is this the attraction?

Have to find out. Booked a glass bottomed boat guided tour of the reef for the next day. Very entertaining guide was Alec but hardly a visual treat the reef….

DSC07952 DSC07955 DSC07966 DSC07973 DSC07976 DSC07991 DSC08009 DSC08010

We’re told the colour is better if you dive on the reef ie get down there with it. That ain’t gunna happen. There’s sharks out there.

We certainly didn’t see in Exmouth what we presume others must do. Maybe Coral Bay is better. Back southwards.

Coral Bay is a pretty little seaside resort but you gotta like the beach and probably fishing  to get the most out of it. Clearly a lot of people do. Judging by the occupancy of the caravan park….

DSC08025 DSC08030

DSC08026 DSC08027 DSC08028 DSC08029

Next stop Carnarvon on the southerly journey which unfortunately is also the way home. We are now only 904km north of Perth (or so)

Leave a Reply