Aaaah Esperence! Got in last night just 6 days after leaving Ceduna.
Without referring to notes I think the last entry startled some avid readers because the pitcha didn’t align with the prose. The robbery I’m talkin’ about was the price showing on the pump, 1.99.9. Mind you it didn’t get a lot better – 198.9 at Border Village 192.9 at Eucla, 186.9 at Balladonia (where I must add a token B & E sanger was 6.50) but surprisingly “only” 1.56.9 in Norseman, actually cheaper than petrol.
The Nullarbor or more particularly the Eyre Highway was a breeze. Good sealed road all the way, temperature around 24 most of the way and a gentle zephyr occasionally – only did around 250 – 350km per day. Whilst I had anticipated taking many more days to cross with much venturing off road there really wasn’t that much out of the way to see. Had anticipated the longest “off” would be a trip to Cook, 100km or so north of the Highway to see the budgerigars I remember seeing as a kid from the train in 1958, but some close research revealed the town to be mostly deserted and no birds hanging around anymore.
Never-the-less we did “off” several times, parking up the truck and offloading Suzi ( one time being the visit to the Murrawaijinie Caves already reported). We were able to take the whole rig into the viewing site for the Bunda Cliffs……..
Our welcome to WA was a pantry raid – whilst we had devoured all of our fruit and veg or Jude had pre-cooked some we lost the honey at border control
Having filled the tank at Border Village at 1.98.9 I was more than a bit pee’d off to discover that 12 km down the road Eucla offered it at the bargain basement rate of just 1.92.9 and then had the temerity to offer up a prayer to the traveller….
We offloaded at Cocklebiddy to trek off to the Eyre Bird Observatory. Judes first experience of offroading (and Suzi’s). Quite exciting really……..
but the 32km trek was worth it for the destination – a restored Telegraph Station with historical exhibits, now used as a bird observatory and weather station. It’s also manned by volunteers, in this instance Peter and Meg, who guided us through the place and sat for a cuppa with us later. Mad greenies but luverly couple.
Backwards we ventured and reloaded to head for next stop at free camp with toilets near Caiguna – a long drop it was. But there were Barry and Suzy, drinks in hand to welcome the weary bushwackers. Another lost night (well at least for one of us) and on to Fraser Range Station for the next nights stop. We’d been told of the hospitality at Fraser Range and it was a delight after some of the other paid parks we’ve experienced. An old farm (400000 hectares) with a bit on the side. Campfire but no sing song (although that was probably a good thing when looking at the ages of the participants) but a good chin wag in very homely accommodation. All the amenities although still 30 bucks for the privilege of using. 
(the 27 Chrysler and the 47 International are just there to provide some dated ambience and for Johns benefit))
On to Norseman to mark the end of the Eyre…
where there seems to be a bit of a localised problem. There are though some beautiful views and some great history, slag heaps and closed and shuttered shop fronts not withstanding. The information centre was a revelation and we obtained our ‘Nullarbor Crossing Certificate’ there.
Esperance for a few days whilst exploring the area.